I am a kook. That is, I am a beginner, someone who is learning who to surf, but really doesn’t know what he is doing yet. But I’m trying.
It might be more useful to know a few things that I am not:
I am not a good surfer. Not yet anyway. Beginning surfers probably won’t find a ton of useful tips or advice here, since I am pretty much in the same boat they are in. If any experienced surfers happen to read this, however, advice is certainly welcome!
I am not a 20 year old kid. Not by a long shot. I am 37. I’m in pretty good shape, I work out regularly, but I am by no means a superior athletic specimen. I can’t run much more than a mile without getting winded. I have recently increased my workout regime and added some surfing specific exercises. I also practice my balance and pop ups everyday.
I am not looking to get anything out of this other than learning to surf. Like I said, I’m 37 years old, it’s not like I’m looking to go pro. There are just certain things in this life I know I’m supposed to do. Things like learning to ski, writing a novel, driving stick shift, getting scuba certified. I have a strange fascination for, and connection with, the ocean… A mixture of love, fear, and respect, that drives me to form a deeper understanding of it. Surfing is just one manifestation of that. The peace and contentment I feel after a morning in the ocean is enough for me to keep coming back, despite the poundings, closeouts and other beginner’s pitfalls.
And that’s what this blog is all about. I am learning to surf. It’s not easy, and there are lots of challenges, trails, and triumphs along the way. Other neophytes out there like me may read this and crack a smile, or relate to a particular story, and maybe it will inspire them to keep on trying, to see the positives and stick it out for another early morning session. Or maybe a more experienced surfer will stop by, and remember what it was like before they could even stand up on a wave, and go a bit easier on us kooks flailing around out there in the impact zone. That’s about it really. Above all, read, be entertained, and enjoy yourself!
Oh, and one more thing about me: I am goofy foot! See you in the water!
Very cool sight. I’ve really enjoyed reading your stuff. I’m 36 and, like you, am just taking up the sport this year. I just bought a shore house in New Jersey and am trying to take full advantage. Apart from the usual challenges of learning to do this I’ve got 3 kids — 9,7 and 4. Fitting it all in is definitely a challenge! But just about every Friday, Sat and Sun morning at 7:30 I’m out there with my 9′8″ Matador doing my best. Keep it up and I’ll keep reading. There are only so many Kelly Slater youtube videos (interesting, but not really helpful to me) or 1 minute Expert.com clips I can watch! This is refreshing. There have to be more of us” than “them” out there. -Dan
By: Dan on August 19, 2008
at 5:57 pm
Thanks Dan! I’m a Jersey boy myself, and man, a house on the shore sounds awesome! I could kick myself for wasting all those years living 10 minutes from the water and not catching the wave fever! Oh well, better late than never. Thanks again for stopping by, and good luck with your surfing!
By: mediapig on August 20, 2008
at 4:34 am
I’m so glad I came upon your blog! After reading I’m totally stoked about suiting up and getting back out there! I bought a long board a couple of years ago and have since then tried to get out as often as I can. It’s gulf coast (Texas) surfing so not nearly as challenging as California stuff. But from the sound of what Cali’s like, it’s enough for me for the time being! Anyway, your site is an encouragment….and reminded me about everything I love about the sport….even while getting pummeled. keep it up and I look forward to reading about all your surf progress! Peace.
By: Rachael on August 23, 2008
at 6:29 am
hey what happened? have you abandoned your posts?
By: katie on January 30, 2009
at 4:50 pm
Thanks for posting! Nope, I have not abandoned my posts… work, home life, and colder weather have taken a chunk out of my surfing time, but I look forward to resuming my blogging and surfing very soon, including some highlights of a trip or two to Hawaii! Stay stoked, I’ll have new posts soon!
By: mediapig on February 3, 2009
at 1:08 am